Frissurata, a Calabrian delicacy.

A traditional dish that'll get you through winter.

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Each January Giuseppe’s family buys and slaughters a whole pig. Spices and casings are prepared for salsiccia, while jars of tomato sauce are pulled forward in anticipation of ragu. But most importantly knives are sharpened and bowls are washed to hold fresh meat and bones.

The next day Giuseppe’s Zias and mother will pull out their packs of Calabrian chili powder (pepe rosso) to make frissurata.

What is Frissurata?

It’s one of our favorite dishes in the world: a delicious mixture of Calabrian pepe rosso, wine, anise, and lots and lots of pork.

Like the best Calabrian dishes, it’s not something you’ll find at a restaurant. In fact, it’s seen as farmer’s fare. But we all know that farmers eat best.

The name Frissurata comes from the word Frissura which is a type of Calabrian pan. It’s very wide and has curved sides (kind of like a wok but not as deep). Lina uses it frequently for things like stove top cooked chicken, baccala, and of course frissurata.

To make this dish the pork first cooks on its own releasing both fat and water. Then you add the spices and herbs which fry, and finally, you deglaze with wine. Hours of cooking combined with the wine helps to tenderize the meat. What’s left is perfectly melted down fat mixed with spices and herbs creating one of the best sauces ever.

This is a regional dish

This is one of those dishes that changes heavily from town to town. If you go to Crotone they’ll serve it one way. If you go to Catanzaro they’ll serve it another. In Sila, it might not exist at all. And if you go to Reggio Calabria you’re going to get something else entirely. This is the beauty and fun of these old, rustic recipes.

Even between Giuseppe’s mother and Zias, they have their own twists on this dish. But the ingredients always remain the same. This is Lina’s recipe. She made it for our visit with The New York Times and it’s our favorite.